Bordeaux has hogged the headlines in the last century's closing years, with prices for some of the region's superstars reaching a couple of thousand pounds a bottle when Asia's wine-buying frenzy was at its height. Prize properties have also been in the news, changing hands for silly money. Burgundy, by comparison, is beginning to look like a more appealing place. Quietly, some of the negociant houses are being shaken up (for example, Chanson, bought recently by Champagne Bollinger). Prices seem relatively stable, and offer what must almost be considered decent value - compared both to Bordeaux and to rival New World Pinot Noir.
Try: Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Beaune, Champy Pere, 1995 (DeVine Wine Shop Castleknock; Bennetts, Howth; Redmonds, Ranelagh; Cheers-Gibneys, Malahide, about £12.50). Like so many good wines, this gentle red Burgundy, reticent at first, opens up nicely as you sip; subtle and satisfying. From an old negociant with new energy.
