BOTTLE OF THE WEEK

You may moan all you like about the Chardonnay craze, but remember the great white grape would never have achieved its global grip if it weren't such a natural partner for food. That's one good reason to choose the Louis Jadot Bourgogne Blanc Couvent des Jacob ins 1994 (outlets right, £8.99) next time you re entertaining. The other good reason is that, when it comes to Chardonnay with style, white Burgundy is pretty hard to beat and here it comes, from an impeccable source, at a price that would make you feel inclined to throw a party just to celebrate. Lovely lemony fruit, no obtrusive oak and a lingering finish. Perfect for the summer salmon.