Bottle of the week

Poor old Muscadet has almost no street cred these days. Will it be like prawn cocktail and rise again? Maybe, if Tesco Muscadet Sevre et Maine Sur Lie 1998/99 (Tesco, £5.29) is anything to go by. Although Muscadet is a wine to drink young, I actually prefer the slightly richer, creamier 1998 to the 1999 which has just arrived - the younger wine may need a few weeks to settle down. Both have the bracing, salty tang that is Muscadet's hallmark (beware of overchilling, which makes it taste bitter), and you can't complain about the price. Try it with a plate of fish or shellfish.