Bottle Of The Week

To discover - or rediscover - the subtle, delicate pleasure of decent white Burgundy at a passable price, where should you turn? The Cinderella appellation of Montagny isn't the most obvious answer, for its wines can be threadbare - but in masterly hands it delivers superb bottles at a keener cost than its starry neighbours. Louis Latour Montagny 1er Cru La Grande Roche (stockists above, usually £10.99) is one: a textbook white Burgundy, so smooth and poised that it tastes like an absolute aristocrat. A great buy.