Bottle Of The Week

Going nuts? It may seem bizarre to choose something as quaint-sounding and, let's be honest, as costly, as Valdespino Dry Oloroso Don Gonzalo (Searsons, £13.45) as Bottle of the Week but no, it's not a trick - just a magnificent treat, worth shelling out for. If you can't get to Monkstown, Co Dublin, bear in mind that, while one or two other true olorosos (rich and walnutty but dry) are available here, there are plenty of sickly sweet, commercial imposters. Price is a good indication of what's what. Expect to pay roughly the Valdespino figure or your holiday weekend enjoyment may all go down the drain.