Portugal continues to grow in our affections, especially the vibrant white wines of Vinho Verde. However, beyond that Portugal offers a wide range of wines covering all styles and prices.
The climate in Portugal varies according to proximity to the coast and latitude. Vinho Verde, Dão, Lisboa and Bairrada have mild damp maritime influences and produce lighter, fresher wines, while the Douro Valley, Alentejo and others have a hot, dry climate that produces bigger, richer styles. As holidaymakers will be well aware, the further south you venture, the warmer the weather becomes.
Portugal refused to join the clamour for chardonnay, cabernet and other international grapes, so almost all of the wines are made from the country’s wide range of exciting indigenous grape varieties. This week we feature one wine from each of four regions of Portugal. There are plenty others to discover.
Animus is from the Douro, a region once known solely as a producer of Port. In recent years there has been a huge increase in unfortified wines. Made from local grape Castelão, Pegos Claros is in the Palmela region close to the Portuguese capital, Lisbon.
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Dão has always been one of my favourite wine regions, for both red and white wines. The wines, generally light, fragrant and elegant in style, could be compared to Burgundy or the northern Rhône. In recent years a number of exciting producers has emerged, including Carlos Raposo, featured below. In neighbouring Bairrada, Filipa Pato and her Belgian husband William Wouters produce an array of excellent red, white and sparkling wines.
Animus Douro Reserva 2022
13.5%, €9.99
Plump ripe dark fruits overlaid with spice and chocolate. This would go nicely with midweek casseroles and grilled red meat.
Aldi
Pegos Claros Reserva 2021, Setúbal
14%, €19.99
Ripe and rounded with soft plums, tobacco leaf and vanilla spice. Pair it with roast red meats and firm cheeses.
La Touche Wines, Greystones, Co Wicklow; Pinto, Dublin 9; Grape & Grain, Leopardstown, Co Dublin; Leonard’s, Trim, Co Meath; McHugh’s, Dublin 5; Fallon & Byrne, Dublin 2; Matson’s, Cork; MacGuiness, Dundalk, Co Louth; O’Briens, Donnybrook Fair
Dinamica Tinto 2024 Bairrada, Filipa Pato, Biodynamic
12%, €21-22
Delicious fresh strawberry and red cherry fruits. Light- to medium-bodied and smooth. Enjoy it with charcuterie, grilled white meats or cheesy vegetable gratins.
Delgany Wine Cottage, Co Wicklow; BaRossa Wines, Dublin 4; Pinto; Lilith, Dublin 7; Martin’s, Dublin 3; 64 Wine, Glasthule, Co Dublin; McCurtain’s, Cork; Thenudewineco.ie; Clontarf Wines, Dublin 3
Carlos Raposo Dão Impecável 2023, Biodynamic
13%, €24-25
Fresh and elegant with enticing floral aromas, velvety light fruit and subtle tannins. Grilled pork chops or chicken, semi-hard cheeses, cauliflower cheese.
MacCurtain Wine Cellar, Cork; Blackrock Cellar; Mitchell & Son, Sandycove, Co Dublin, The Vaults, Dublin 2; Green Man, Dublin 6
